She was over last night and enlarged it to fit.
Fits now and is more awesome than before.
Casey
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Enlarging the VW Hat
Well, I have a BIG head so the VW Hat my sister knitted me was too small.
She was over last night and enlarged it to fit.
Fits now and is more awesome than before.
Casey
She was over last night and enlarged it to fit.
Fits now and is more awesome than before.
Casey
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Connecting the Wire Loom on the Bulk Head
Previously I installed a 9 wire electrical loom from the engine compartment to the front of the bus. I also installed a bulk head for electrical components like the Terminal Block for the wire loom.
Today I mounted the terminal block on the front of the electrical bulk head.
Because I wanted to take up little room on the front AND I like using grommets, I drilled a hole in the bulk head and installed a grommet.
Here's the wires pulled through:
Now, the thing I should have done when starting this whole project was to label the wires first. That way, when I have 'em at either end of the bus I wouldn't have to try and figure them out. BUT, I didn't. So, I had to use my meter to figure out which wire was which. Basically I have a long wire with alligator clips at either end to test the continuity.
Even though I had mounted it already, I undid that and mounted the wires on the block. also was easier to tuck them away. In retrospect, I probably should have put the hole and grommet a little further away.
Here's the final mounted Terminal Block.
I plan to use this for an auxiliary reverse light and a couple gauges I need to install. Those will be in upcoming posts.
Casey
Today I mounted the terminal block on the front of the electrical bulk head.
Because I wanted to take up little room on the front AND I like using grommets, I drilled a hole in the bulk head and installed a grommet.
Here's the wires pulled through:
Now, the thing I should have done when starting this whole project was to label the wires first. That way, when I have 'em at either end of the bus I wouldn't have to try and figure them out. BUT, I didn't. So, I had to use my meter to figure out which wire was which. Basically I have a long wire with alligator clips at either end to test the continuity.
Even though I had mounted it already, I undid that and mounted the wires on the block. also was easier to tuck them away. In retrospect, I probably should have put the hole and grommet a little further away.
Here's the final mounted Terminal Block.
I plan to use this for an auxiliary reverse light and a couple gauges I need to install. Those will be in upcoming posts.
Casey
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Girls and Bays
This is photobucket collection dedicated to pictures of girls with bay window buses. The site originated from a thread that used to be on The Samba but because too hard to keep clean. Thus this was started.
If you have your own pics and you want to send to me OR just the link, that would be cool.
For some reason I thought the above pic was one of the best of the ones in the collection.
Casey
Shifter and Gears
Yesterday I started having really bad issues getting the bus into gear. At the end of the day, I couldn't get it into 1st, it ground when it went into 2nd and it got stuck in reverse a couple times.
At first I thought it was the transmission and I was cursing the mechanics again.
Here's what I did:
Tightened the square head retaining bolt in the front shift rod coupler. Also replaced the lock wire.
Did the same thing to the rear Shift Coupler:
Finally, I tightened the Clutch cable at the Transmission. I didn't take a picture of this. For those that have looked at the transmission before, it's on the driver's side of the transmission. There's a lever with a loop in it. The clutch cable terminates in a screw that passes through a loop in the lever. A large wing nut is on the end. In order to really tighten this thing I found it easiest to use a pair of vice grips to hold the screw and turn the wing nut with my hand.
Took it out for a test drive. The car had it's gears back and was zippier. Not sure why zippier but very happy that my gears were back. The clutch was way too tight so the engage/friction point was very far out. I climbed under the bus later and pulled it about 2 revolutions out. Hopefully that helps.
Well, all that worked. The clutch is tighter now, I can shift into all the gears and I feel better about the state of my transmission.
Only problem left is that the first gear pops out unless you hold it in place.
Here are some threads I found on adjusting the shifter:
Shifter Issues On The Samba
Reverse Lock-Out Plate Adjustment on VW-Resource
And ...
I'll probably give the adjustment thing a try tomorrow.
Casey
At first I thought it was the transmission and I was cursing the mechanics again.
Here's what I did:
Tightened the square head retaining bolt in the front shift rod coupler. Also replaced the lock wire.
Did the same thing to the rear Shift Coupler:
Finally, I tightened the Clutch cable at the Transmission. I didn't take a picture of this. For those that have looked at the transmission before, it's on the driver's side of the transmission. There's a lever with a loop in it. The clutch cable terminates in a screw that passes through a loop in the lever. A large wing nut is on the end. In order to really tighten this thing I found it easiest to use a pair of vice grips to hold the screw and turn the wing nut with my hand.
Took it out for a test drive. The car had it's gears back and was zippier. Not sure why zippier but very happy that my gears were back. The clutch was way too tight so the engage/friction point was very far out. I climbed under the bus later and pulled it about 2 revolutions out. Hopefully that helps.
Well, all that worked. The clutch is tighter now, I can shift into all the gears and I feel better about the state of my transmission.
Only problem left is that the first gear pops out unless you hold it in place.
Here are some threads I found on adjusting the shifter:
Shifter Issues On The Samba
Reverse Lock-Out Plate Adjustment on VW-Resource
And ...
Bentley Ch. 6 Pg. 10-11 it has some good detailed pics as well.
I'll probably give the adjustment thing a try tomorrow.
Casey
Friday, February 12, 2010
Drove the Bus to Work
Today, I drove the bus to work. Took about an hour on the non-interstate which is pretty freaking good.
The bus did awesome. I forgot how much I love driving and singing... yes, I sing in the car. Good stress relief and makes driving fun.
The bus is cold, but I just need to seal up some vents and holes.
Performance-wise, it did great.
My first gear slips out. I have to figure that one out or do an adjustment or something.
Casey
The bus did awesome. I forgot how much I love driving and singing... yes, I sing in the car. Good stress relief and makes driving fun.
The bus is cold, but I just need to seal up some vents and holes.
Performance-wise, it did great.
My first gear slips out. I have to figure that one out or do an adjustment or something.
Casey
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
My Bus Covered in Snow
It snowed here last night... probably around 15 inches. I got off the train last night and had to uncover the bus. I tried to snap pics on my phone and got these:
Last night I parked it at my house so I would get more snow on it and could take pics this morning. SO, here they are:
That's it.
Casey
Last night I parked it at my house so I would get more snow on it and could take pics this morning. SO, here they are:
That's it.
Casey
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
139 Decibels of Horn
Well this weekend I also put in a new horn. My current horn is operational but the steering column needs to be adjusted in order for the button to work. I didn't feel like tackling that one so I decided to just put in a new horn and a red button.
My parents bought me a horn from AutoZone for my birthday:
Here's the back. It grounds to itself which is grounded by the metal strap.
And here's a momentary switch I bought from Radio Shack. It was a two pack so I have one Red and one Black. In retrospect, I should have bought a lit one. I might go back and pick one of those up and swap it out. But for now, I have a red button for my horn.
Here's the hole I cut. Basically, like I said in previous posts, VW put pre-drilled holes into the metal behind the dash material. You have to feel along the back with your fingers, find the hole and stick something sharp through. I use an exacto knife. For this I also had to use a half inch drill bit to make it just a little bigger.
And here's the button installed:
One idea I had to make this a little more aesthetically pleasing of an install was to take a large diameter coin or maybe even a doorbell backing plate and put it behind the red button. The button doesn't look like enough. Maybe I'll need to make it lighted and give it a background.
Momentary means that the circuit is only completed when the button is pushed in. The button does not stay in, so the circuit is only active for the "moment" that you push the button. For this circuit I ran the power from my number 9 fuse (held for accessories) through the switch and down to the horn.
I removed the original horn (temporarily) and placed the new horn there. I'll put the old horn back once I adjust the steering wheel.
So, is it loud? Yes, it is loud.
I've told people about this install and they often ask is it the AAAA-OOOOO-GAAA horn. They do sell that horn at HarboFreight but I'm not sure I want to go that way. Others install air-horn which there are a plethora of online to buy.
I think I'm good with this for right now. I've not had to use it yet, but I'm looking forward to it.
Casey
My parents bought me a horn from AutoZone for my birthday:
Here's the back. It grounds to itself which is grounded by the metal strap.
And here's a momentary switch I bought from Radio Shack. It was a two pack so I have one Red and one Black. In retrospect, I should have bought a lit one. I might go back and pick one of those up and swap it out. But for now, I have a red button for my horn.
Here's the hole I cut. Basically, like I said in previous posts, VW put pre-drilled holes into the metal behind the dash material. You have to feel along the back with your fingers, find the hole and stick something sharp through. I use an exacto knife. For this I also had to use a half inch drill bit to make it just a little bigger.
And here's the button installed:
One idea I had to make this a little more aesthetically pleasing of an install was to take a large diameter coin or maybe even a doorbell backing plate and put it behind the red button. The button doesn't look like enough. Maybe I'll need to make it lighted and give it a background.
Momentary means that the circuit is only completed when the button is pushed in. The button does not stay in, so the circuit is only active for the "moment" that you push the button. For this circuit I ran the power from my number 9 fuse (held for accessories) through the switch and down to the horn.
I removed the original horn (temporarily) and placed the new horn there. I'll put the old horn back once I adjust the steering wheel.
So, is it loud? Yes, it is loud.
I've told people about this install and they often ask is it the AAAA-OOOOO-GAAA horn. They do sell that horn at HarboFreight but I'm not sure I want to go that way. Others install air-horn which there are a plethora of online to buy.
I think I'm good with this for right now. I've not had to use it yet, but I'm looking forward to it.
Casey
Monday, February 8, 2010
Electrical Bulkhead Upgrade
So, a while ago I saw a thread on The Samba where a guy had made a panel behind the kick panel in front of the driver seat to mount his electrical additions (relays, fuse blocks, terminal blocks). It was another genius moment and since then I've wanted to do it. I am anal as hell when it comes to wires and being able to hide things from sight. I love things to be neat and tidy.
I can't find the thread now but if I do, then I'll post it up here.
Went over to my parents and worked with my dad on this one. In actuality I waved my hands and described how to do it, he did the rest.
The idea is simple, Except for the fresh air vent boxes, there really isn't metal that you can mount extra items to in the front of the bus. You can secure things to races and use double stick tape I suppose, but nothing that's secure and grounded.
My goals:
My dad started with a metal case that he had had since I was a kid. He used it to carry his torch for sweating copper. In retrospective, I'm honored to have had this cut up and placed in my bus. Its one of those things that I remember vividly from my childhood.
I don't have a picture of it, but basically he took a piece of cardboard and cut a template. He worked it until he got it to where it fit. AS you will see, it's by the drivers left foot in the corner under the left headlight shroud.
This next picture shows my dad using metal benders to fold the metal edges over. This actually is pretty important. you're going to have wires and electrical around this ON TOP OF your hands being around it. I cut my fingers enough, no need to add in booby traps for when I'm fiddling around in the dark some day in the future.
To cut all this, we just used Tin Snips... nothing fancy. The metal is a thin gauge. It bends easy. The metal benders give you a upper hand. I would suggest them BUT if you don't have them, no worries.
Here's what it looked like before we painted and mounted it. The two tabs on the upper right are to mount it to the headlight shroud. The two on the bottom are for the lip of the floor. The left hand side will mount on the internal frame. These are difficult to explain. the next pictures will hopefully make sense.
This is the finished product. Scuffed it up, primed it and painted it.
In order to mount it, I used 1/8" pop rivets. I held it in place and drilled through the outside and hopefully through the bulkhead. For some reason I thought I could hold it while I drilled... So, one drilled finger later I figured out that using a pair of pliers was a much better idea. I put one rivet in each support strap AND two in the left hand side.
Anyway, after mounting it, I'm very happy. Structurally, it is rigid and looks like it will do exactly what I wanted out of it.
The next thing I'll do is put in the other end of my wire loom. When I do, I'll post a pic.
If you have questions or want more information, please comment. I'm happy to take more pics or answer whatever.
Casey
I can't find the thread now but if I do, then I'll post it up here.
Went over to my parents and worked with my dad on this one. In actuality I waved my hands and described how to do it, he did the rest.
The idea is simple, Except for the fresh air vent boxes, there really isn't metal that you can mount extra items to in the front of the bus. You can secure things to races and use double stick tape I suppose, but nothing that's secure and grounded.
My goals:
- Made of metal
- Secured to other metal with rivets or screws
- located on the driver side
- as big as I could make it
- hidden but accessible
- recessed enough behind a kick panel to fit a relay or fuse block (1 - 2 inches)
My dad started with a metal case that he had had since I was a kid. He used it to carry his torch for sweating copper. In retrospective, I'm honored to have had this cut up and placed in my bus. Its one of those things that I remember vividly from my childhood.
I don't have a picture of it, but basically he took a piece of cardboard and cut a template. He worked it until he got it to where it fit. AS you will see, it's by the drivers left foot in the corner under the left headlight shroud.
This next picture shows my dad using metal benders to fold the metal edges over. This actually is pretty important. you're going to have wires and electrical around this ON TOP OF your hands being around it. I cut my fingers enough, no need to add in booby traps for when I'm fiddling around in the dark some day in the future.
To cut all this, we just used Tin Snips... nothing fancy. The metal is a thin gauge. It bends easy. The metal benders give you a upper hand. I would suggest them BUT if you don't have them, no worries.
Here's what it looked like before we painted and mounted it. The two tabs on the upper right are to mount it to the headlight shroud. The two on the bottom are for the lip of the floor. The left hand side will mount on the internal frame. These are difficult to explain. the next pictures will hopefully make sense.
This is the finished product. Scuffed it up, primed it and painted it.
In order to mount it, I used 1/8" pop rivets. I held it in place and drilled through the outside and hopefully through the bulkhead. For some reason I thought I could hold it while I drilled... So, one drilled finger later I figured out that using a pair of pliers was a much better idea. I put one rivet in each support strap AND two in the left hand side.
Anyway, after mounting it, I'm very happy. Structurally, it is rigid and looks like it will do exactly what I wanted out of it.
The next thing I'll do is put in the other end of my wire loom. When I do, I'll post a pic.
If you have questions or want more information, please comment. I'm happy to take more pics or answer whatever.
Casey
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Awesome Custom Under Dash Parcel Trays
Decided to treat myself to some cool upgrades and support a VW Custom Aftermarket solution. I also think I'm nearing the end of needing to open up the internals of the front so installing the parcel trays isn't really going to hurt me too much. That being said, i started to look around.
This Parcel Tray Thread appeared on The Samba and pointed to the normal parcel trays from BusDepot. A few posts in and a link to Custom Trays showed up. I'd seen these before and decided since they all seem to be pretty expensive, why not spend the extra for some nice ones.
The guy who makes and sells these is named Stephen. He's out of Southern California. I found him to be very easy to work with, responsive to emails and questions and follow through with what he said he would do. So, I give him a pretty good grade.
I went ahead and ordered the Black Vinyl set of Parcel Trays. They match the rest of the interior I have in the bus. The wood ones he makes look awesome and it was definitely a discussion point, but the vinyl was the way I went.
Trays took a couple of weeks to make and then shipped with tracking number. They arrived yesterday.
Trays were packed in a recycled box with all sorts of interesting packing material... Broken Styrofoam, plastic bottles, air bags... I'll give him credit for re-using stuff.
Here's the trays in the plastic garbage bags that they were in the packing material with. I want to make sure that you don't take this wrong. I'm not making fun. I'm pointing out the resourcefulness and re-use here. Stephen also runs his own shop to make these things. The product is top quality. I think it's awesome.
Here are the trays unpacked with the hardware and cupholders. The passenger side is on the bottom and the driver side is on top.
Here are the pics of the bottom of the trays that one of the readers asked for:
Here's a close up:
I'll follow up with some pics once they're in place.
Casey
This Parcel Tray Thread appeared on The Samba and pointed to the normal parcel trays from BusDepot. A few posts in and a link to Custom Trays showed up. I'd seen these before and decided since they all seem to be pretty expensive, why not spend the extra for some nice ones.
The guy who makes and sells these is named Stephen. He's out of Southern California. I found him to be very easy to work with, responsive to emails and questions and follow through with what he said he would do. So, I give him a pretty good grade.
I went ahead and ordered the Black Vinyl set of Parcel Trays. They match the rest of the interior I have in the bus. The wood ones he makes look awesome and it was definitely a discussion point, but the vinyl was the way I went.
Trays took a couple of weeks to make and then shipped with tracking number. They arrived yesterday.
Trays were packed in a recycled box with all sorts of interesting packing material... Broken Styrofoam, plastic bottles, air bags... I'll give him credit for re-using stuff.
Here's the trays in the plastic garbage bags that they were in the packing material with. I want to make sure that you don't take this wrong. I'm not making fun. I'm pointing out the resourcefulness and re-use here. Stephen also runs his own shop to make these things. The product is top quality. I think it's awesome.
Here are the trays unpacked with the hardware and cupholders. The passenger side is on the bottom and the driver side is on top.
Here are the pics of the bottom of the trays that one of the readers asked for:
Here's a close up:
I'll follow up with some pics once they're in place.
Casey
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Reader Question: Rewire or Not?
So this is the first time I've done this, but here's a reader question:
I have a 72 vw bus that needs to be rewired. I know nothing about this kind of procedure. in your opinion what would it cost someone to do this? like in a vdub shop. If you know. I will post a pic of my bus tomorrow. My wife and myself have owned this bus for five years. We bought it on craigslist for 1000 bucks. It drives but is in poor condition. How much do you know about buses and mechanics? let me know. We are in Oregon
Thanks
Doug
Doug,
My bus had really bad problems in the beginning and I became hell-bent on rewiring it. I'm glad I didn't. While every bus would probably operate better with all new wire, the cost and time outweigh the benefits unless your bus is a rats' nest. This is my opinion.
There are those that say rewire and have a solid nervous system of your car. If you're up to it and saavy, the bus does have an easy and exposed platform to work inside of. Just be prepared for it to not go smoothly.
I would imagine that most auto shops would not take on that project and probably try to talk you out of it. I may be wrong here but if I were them that's what I would do .
You mention that it is drivable and that's a good thing. To me that says it doesn't need to be rewired. Having no more information than what was in your question, I would suggest the approach that I took.
Before you do any of this.
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE TO YOUR BATTERY.
Tip 1: Replace bad wire.
If there are obvious wires that are melted or exposed, clip the section out and splice in new wire. Just do them as you see the need.
Make sure to get the right connectors if you're replacing those and invest in a decent wire stripper/crimper.
Here's a link with a diagram on how to do this: Wire Splicing Using Butt Connectors
Or you could watch this video:
ALSO, when replacing sections of wire, give yourself some extra wire... don't make it tight. In early attempts I made this mistake. Since then I've gone back and added more. The extra wire makes it easier to work with whatever it's connected to later on.
Make sure to do at least the gauge (thickness) or bigger. The gauge is directly related to the amount of electricity that needs to be sent through it. Splicing in a smaller gauge is just asking for a melted wire. Once you use the butt connectors, tape them or heat shrink them to seal the connection from the elements.
Tip 2: Buy some zip ties and secure loose wires.
Wires that wave around rub on things, rubbing = friction and friction = bad. Tie those puppies up.
Tip 3: Clean connection points with a wire brush or sand paper. Make 'em shiny. :)
You could do this all day. It's only going to help. It also is pretty rewarding and can be done in small increments. On top of that, you'll generally find some of the bad wire or just bad connections during this activity. One note: Don't remove too many at once.
Remove all your fuses (noting where each went) and clean all the terminals that they sit in. You can get replacement fuses at a FLAPS (Friend Local Auto Parts Store). I did this because it cost me $4 and it's a reason to go to an auto parts store which I enjoy.
Tip 4: Find your Wire Diagram and make a BIG Printout of it.
... then hang it on the wall and use it to trace the wires and see what they are.
Your wiring diagram is available at VintageBus.com. Download it, bring it to a Kinkos or some Shop and have it blown up as big as you can.
Standard Tips I Tell People:
Advice: Use a Digital Camera and TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES.
This has saved my ass a number of times. I generally take pictures and have my laptop out by me, but whatever. The picture can answer everything. Also if you're going to blog, it helps :)
Advice: Use The Samba. (http://www.thesamba.com)
In the community section at the top are listings for businesses, clubs and events. Be sure to use the Search functionality because you probably aren't the first person to encounter stuff. pictures help with descriptions.
Advice: Make some VW Friends
Trust me, they are out there and they can support you in your efforts to get your bus running. I used to live on the West Coast and I know there are a TON of enthusiasts in Oregon. You can use the Samba to find these. You could probably put an ad on Craigslist offering food, beer, whatever and you'll have a party of people wanting to help.
Advice: Get a Recommendation for a Good Honest Mechanic:
... don't feel pressured into doing anything and make sure you ask questions. If they don't want to answer them, then move on. You know more than you think. Whether it be The Samba, friends or your own investigations, find a decent mechanic who's going to be like going to a doctor. I wrote a post about Interviewing a Mechanic. You might give it a read.
I think that that's about it. Please post your responses and lets continue the conversation in comments here.
Casey
I have a 72 vw bus that needs to be rewired. I know nothing about this kind of procedure. in your opinion what would it cost someone to do this? like in a vdub shop. If you know. I will post a pic of my bus tomorrow. My wife and myself have owned this bus for five years. We bought it on craigslist for 1000 bucks. It drives but is in poor condition. How much do you know about buses and mechanics? let me know. We are in Oregon
Thanks
Doug
Doug,
My bus had really bad problems in the beginning and I became hell-bent on rewiring it. I'm glad I didn't. While every bus would probably operate better with all new wire, the cost and time outweigh the benefits unless your bus is a rats' nest. This is my opinion.
There are those that say rewire and have a solid nervous system of your car. If you're up to it and saavy, the bus does have an easy and exposed platform to work inside of. Just be prepared for it to not go smoothly.
I would imagine that most auto shops would not take on that project and probably try to talk you out of it. I may be wrong here but if I were them that's what I would do .
You mention that it is drivable and that's a good thing. To me that says it doesn't need to be rewired. Having no more information than what was in your question, I would suggest the approach that I took.
Before you do any of this.
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE TO YOUR BATTERY.
Tip 1: Replace bad wire.
If there are obvious wires that are melted or exposed, clip the section out and splice in new wire. Just do them as you see the need.
Make sure to get the right connectors if you're replacing those and invest in a decent wire stripper/crimper.
Here's a link with a diagram on how to do this: Wire Splicing Using Butt Connectors
Or you could watch this video:
ALSO, when replacing sections of wire, give yourself some extra wire... don't make it tight. In early attempts I made this mistake. Since then I've gone back and added more. The extra wire makes it easier to work with whatever it's connected to later on.
Make sure to do at least the gauge (thickness) or bigger. The gauge is directly related to the amount of electricity that needs to be sent through it. Splicing in a smaller gauge is just asking for a melted wire. Once you use the butt connectors, tape them or heat shrink them to seal the connection from the elements.
Tip 2: Buy some zip ties and secure loose wires.
Wires that wave around rub on things, rubbing = friction and friction = bad. Tie those puppies up.
Tip 3: Clean connection points with a wire brush or sand paper. Make 'em shiny. :)
You could do this all day. It's only going to help. It also is pretty rewarding and can be done in small increments. On top of that, you'll generally find some of the bad wire or just bad connections during this activity. One note: Don't remove too many at once.
Remove all your fuses (noting where each went) and clean all the terminals that they sit in. You can get replacement fuses at a FLAPS (Friend Local Auto Parts Store). I did this because it cost me $4 and it's a reason to go to an auto parts store which I enjoy.
Tip 4: Find your Wire Diagram and make a BIG Printout of it.
... then hang it on the wall and use it to trace the wires and see what they are.
Your wiring diagram is available at VintageBus.com. Download it, bring it to a Kinkos or some Shop and have it blown up as big as you can.
Standard Tips I Tell People:
Advice: Use a Digital Camera and TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES.
This has saved my ass a number of times. I generally take pictures and have my laptop out by me, but whatever. The picture can answer everything. Also if you're going to blog, it helps :)
Advice: Use The Samba. (http://www.thesamba.com)
In the community section at the top are listings for businesses, clubs and events. Be sure to use the Search functionality because you probably aren't the first person to encounter stuff. pictures help with descriptions.
Advice: Make some VW Friends
Trust me, they are out there and they can support you in your efforts to get your bus running. I used to live on the West Coast and I know there are a TON of enthusiasts in Oregon. You can use the Samba to find these. You could probably put an ad on Craigslist offering food, beer, whatever and you'll have a party of people wanting to help.
Advice: Get a Recommendation for a Good Honest Mechanic:
... don't feel pressured into doing anything and make sure you ask questions. If they don't want to answer them, then move on. You know more than you think. Whether it be The Samba, friends or your own investigations, find a decent mechanic who's going to be like going to a doctor. I wrote a post about Interviewing a Mechanic. You might give it a read.
I think that that's about it. Please post your responses and lets continue the conversation in comments here.
Casey
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
New Headlight Switch
Ordered a new headlight switch (211941531E) from JBugs.com and got it today.
My current switch is original. I have been having problems with the interior lights. Most recently I was driving home late and I turned the knob and heard a buzzing sound then nothing.
So I ordered this new one. I'll install it this weekend. Should be about 10 minutes.
Here is a pic of the knob:
Here is a pic of the side:
Here is a pic of the top:
Casey
My current switch is original. I have been having problems with the interior lights. Most recently I was driving home late and I turned the knob and heard a buzzing sound then nothing.
So I ordered this new one. I'll install it this weekend. Should be about 10 minutes.
Here is a pic of the knob:
Here is a pic of the side:
Here is a pic of the top:
Casey
My VW Hat
My sister knitted me a hat with a VW logo. Cool thing about the logo is that it looks the same in a mirror.
Thanks Meg!
Casey
Weekend of Gauges
This weekend will be the weekend of gauges.
I ordered two Gauge cups from SummitRacing.com.
My plan for placement is to put the Oil Pressure and the CHT on the dash in these cups to the drivers left. I like to see them and while most people put them down, I don't like that. I want to be able to see them while driving.
I also bought this VDO dual gauge holder. I'm going to use that but put two voltmeters in it for my starter and house batteries. I'm just going to wire them to the respective fuse boxes and mount this below the dash.
I'm planning on looking into LEDs for these and wiring them into the headlight switch so they come on with the other dash lights.
Casey
I ordered two Gauge cups from SummitRacing.com.
My plan for placement is to put the Oil Pressure and the CHT on the dash in these cups to the drivers left. I like to see them and while most people put them down, I don't like that. I want to be able to see them while driving.
I also bought this VDO dual gauge holder. I'm going to use that but put two voltmeters in it for my starter and house batteries. I'm just going to wire them to the respective fuse boxes and mount this below the dash.
I'm planning on looking into LEDs for these and wiring them into the headlight switch so they come on with the other dash lights.
Casey
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